Wine isn’t a spectator sport. It’s utterly intimate. A great crafted wine will touch your soul and make you feel you’ve gone someplace you’ve never been before. The art of crafting a wine that is truly memorable starts in the vineyard. So here is an insider’s look at what is in involved in creating Thorn Hill’s artisan wines.
A lessor known but paramount responsibility of a wine maker is taking an active role in overseeing the grape growing management throughout the growing season. An artisan bottle of quality wine starts in the vineyard. Every year, Mother Nature throws a few curve balls, and 2011 is no exception. When early May rains soaked the grapes, some forecasted that it was going to be a difficult growing season. But by June the heavy rain falls gave way to golden skies of sunlight and I got my first glimpse at potential crop yields for the year. In a wet and vigorous season like this one, the name of the game is canopy management. Late spring rains followed by warm weather have facilitated aggressive vine growth and dense canopies. I am taking a proactive approach by hedging the vines and removing selected leaves and laterals at the base of the grapevine shoots to improve airflow and sunlight around the clusters. This practice greatly improves the flavors of the grapes, which leads to better wines.
This year, we have been fortunate to have earlier heat. Multiple days of 90-100 degree temperatures in June helped acclimate the grapes to the warmer summer weather. When compared to last year we are on par, but still nipping at the heels of what some growers would consider a “normal” year.
Every season has its unexpected weather that can potentially wreak havoc on the grapes: too much heat, not enough heat, too much rain, not enough rain. That’s part of what makes grape-growing such a challenging art. One always has to be thinking proactively and bringing past experiences to bear on the situation.
What separates the good from the great is the ability to determine how to mitigate certain risks and not worry about others. I am fortunate to be growing grapes in an area where quality is always paramount. Luckily in Napa, Sonoma and Lake Counties when Mother Nature throws us a curve ball, we have the experience, resources, and expertise to deal with it. The growing season is well underway and everyone is excited to see how it will turn out. In my opinion, 2011 will be remembered as a challenging, but rewarding year that will provide the quality grapes to make fantastic wines.
